There’s always a bittersweet pang that comes with the final day of Philippine Fashion Week. I know, I know… we still have a long way to go. But each season has its own special little fashion flavor, and while it may sound silly it’s always difficult to say adieu once the shows move on. This season, was the best so far for the Philippine Fashion, it was.
They came prepared. They arrived with a plan and set to execute it with determination, some seasoned, some neophytes....playing the game where the runway was the ultimate battle that separates the boys from men. It was not exactly a grand benchmark, but the full packed arena was a sight to behold for a relatively young and unpredictable Philippine Fashion Week. Once fledgling, the fashion week indicated solid grounds, the shaky days are behind and after a decade or so, it means a serious business, just a little so.
The fashion energy and style dynamism was there, the aesthetics, the opulence, the necessary glam to the hangers, this is just a start for the thinking space for positivity, a week we love to be there, to be counted and to lend support. The flashes already followed them, the extra attention and the media adulation. The creative reins with marketabilty and design recognition, a vision that played between design strategy in the domestic market that will slowly cement it's presence in the international scene, hopefully.
They intend to have a piece of every pie. Runway regulars showcased their collections with every season of late, made us guess which season and year it was supposedly been exhibited. Fashion weeks are trade events, it's all about business..it's all about trends, fashion forward merchandize that international buyers will notice and come. Selective showcasing is much better than bringing in the whole brigade of clueless designers. A modified platform is important that will shape the arena for creative presentation, like a fashion week about organic fabrics or a tribal meets modern silhouettes or simply terno revisited. But why not.......?
The importance of a very organized fashion infrastructure is the biggest challenge of the fashion week, planning ahead systematically and integrations of modern ideas that will set up a higher standard in the future weeks to come, thus maintaing creativity and business in balance, the solid marketability of the products, the manufacturing areas and strategies in the whole fashion industry.
It was no surprise, to say the least. Sensibilities and aesthetics struggled -in shapes, inspirations, fabrications and silhouettes to stamp their marks and signatures, well, some did achieve..... some did not.
Fashion watchers conjectured endlessly at the lobby of SMX/Mall of Asia, the fashion venue for the packed crowd that had been always abuzz on who's who on the runway since day ONE. I squeezed myself through the mob, bypassed the cameras and flashing bulbs and walked down to the front row seat, relieved to get inside.
The show is about to begin......
1. DANILO FRANCO
His sartorial formula of sharp, clean and high-shine uncluttered urban filipinism remained one of his best bet under his sleeves, season after season. Franco's broadened surface texturized with hand embroidery in ethnic three dimensional manipulation added sartorial finish to his measured elegance. It's architectural yet powerful femininity, his risque paid off. Organza was his fabric and he was right, the texture shimmered and flattered, giving the somewhat Lake Sebu's indigenous rice prints a mystifying ethnic story. The "banig weaving" richly done in strong colors gave a haute feel...indeed Franco's polished collection elevated luxury in theme filipiana- fluidity in highest form. Intelligently managed, he showcased his prowess with precision tailoring- high geometry and crisp construction....this is Fashion Week's HOLIDAY all about.
2. EDGAR SAN DIEGO
Minimalism championed Edgar San Diegos' presentation; his uncanny eye for styling provides the desired twists in a show. This time, the characteristically ethno-retro range toyed even more with menswear. But the soft constructions, languid silhouettes and minimal use of colors in beige, black, white and mustard prevented the outfits from becoming too flashy and costume-like. He explored textiles in different weights, weaves and falls and incorporated his collection with photographic print of curved stone and harmoniously retained the distinct Filipino elements without going superficially or overtly heritage. Light, non overly embellished filipiniana are always refreshing to see; the perfect match of stripes and lines were heartwarming, after all, details, details and details will always be the gauge that separates fly-by-nights to the frontliners. The unconventional yet simple strokes made traditional seems cutting-edge. Non-conformist yet ‘normal’, dynamic yet calm – the EDGAR SAN DIEGO woman is always flirting with definitions.
3. GERRY KATIGBAK
Gerry Katigbak made a softer, more covetable version of his elegantly tailored separates on the runway. Coordinated blouses and trousers were almost holistic with its fluid lines. His ensembles were appealing with his classic clean constructions on tiered maxi dresses, light jackets, silks and chiffons with manipulated finish to soften the somewhat rigid trouser/shirt combo. Sartorial grunge with a penchant of mixing orientalia with bohemian looks, Katigbak's tongue-in-cheek irony is one excellent factor on his dominance.... distinctively, Gerry's.
His jewelries were well crafted and finely hand made and playfully adding the texture to the complete silhouette. Thematically constructed, the accessories produced a punkish-tribal elements deceptively so desirable, that sometimes it took away much of the attention from the clothes.
The costume-made tailored pieces, fine detailing and construction, best showcased Katigbak's skills and design DNA. His collection exudes luxury, although his jackets with neck accessories seemed borrowed from his previous collections, but over all, Gerry Katigbak upped his artistic quotient with his "looking rich...and looking good" works.
The costume-made tailored pieces, fine detailing and construction, best showcased Katigbak's skills and design DNA. His collection exudes luxury, although his jackets with neck accessories seemed borrowed from his previous collections, but over all, Gerry Katigbak upped his artistic quotient with his "looking rich...and looking good" works.
4. SALVACION LIM HIGGINS
Returning to the runway, Madame Higgins' collection is a breath of fresh air, an alternate collection that inevitably raised above the ‘seen-done- that’ factor. Setting a fine line between haute couture and you-know-what- parade of un- identified walking hangers with forgettable clothes, her vibrant décolletage hailed the fiery sensuality of the vintage couture, from draped ensembles, floral prints, rosette laces and symmetrical skirt were all part of the carefully planned irreverence. Almost like challenging her audience to guess her woman, juxtaposing traits that defied age or personality.
Slim or Salvacion Lim Higgins, the designer, presented immaculate tailoring, strong lines and strict vision, clothes displayed an intricate balance of volume and restraint, especially her black terno in black. Madame Higgins "look" shows the Maestra's haute experience...and it matters.
5. ALBERT ANDRADA
Dubai -based designer Andrada opened his runway show in a rollout of skilfully-layered ensembles of floaty, light maxi cape and coats interspersed with lace, gold and silver embroideries with dashes of Swarovski brilliants and diamants. Inspired by the last virgins of the Renaissance, recalling the style dandyism of that particular age, exquisitely ruffled dresses in off-white was revitalised with broderie, chiffons, organzas, feathers and fine embroideries. The avant garde collection beautifully transposing to contemporary urbanity by the clever use of loud and vibrant colored stockings. Large shaped pendants in hand crafted crystals and wrist cuffs backed with net and highlighted with stones add the overall romantic feel. And so the audience waited with suspended breath as Andrada's virgins appeared on the runway. The crowd applauded.
6. DERICK HIBALER
Derick Hibaler's latest menswear infuses sexuality in fashion, unapologetically, dripping sensuality on the runway, it was effective...isn't it we use fashion to feel good, sexy and stylish?
There is a thin line dividing both and there is something about Hibaler's fashion metaphor that would probably mirrors his state of mind, is it the male domain of power?, a mensline reinvention? or simply his antithesis of all soft, voluminous, girlie type dressing and so sartorial clothes...... who knows.
They walked into the ramp, straight out of an all male fantasy. But, this was no dream. This was style reality, demi- couture on a rampage. Gorgeous men with bare chests prompted many a wolf whistle from the audience.
Hibaler pushed things with washed/distressed jeans paired with stylish cardigans and manly inner shirts. Mainly in cut-outs, his hypnotic use of abstract lines over surface or under surface displayed almost a compulsive and hyper deliverance of the designer's score of his vision. Palettes of black, gray and blue were intentionally expressed and utilized to male show-off ..of brawns and virility. Hibaler undoubtedly made a platform in the world of mensline and his collection, or shall I say his masculine tailoring, made an effort to be recognized, to catch attention....and he got it ....plus,plus!!!!!!
7. RONALDO ARNALDO
Surprisingly Arnaldo's Holiday Collection came up with his couture line of surreal style using different strokes and bundles of new elements. Fabrics were heavy and light, streaks of multi colored palettes, 50's shape to modern and contemporary silhouttes and lots of details veering away from Arnaldo's minimalist and classic forte.
Ronaldo Arnaldo's long jackets, coats, skirts and structured dresses were painstakingly perfecting the whole collection that started with a satin ensemble of floor length jacket with hugebow with detailed spaghetti pipes, lovely cuffs with dainty bows. It was a fabulous opener, achieveing its aesthetics, flair and panache.
The theatrically exaggerated bows, deep cowled cardigans, artistic sleeved blousons in off whites, deep red, manganese blue and purple light up the runway and exuded ever-sensual artforms.
8. FANNY SERRANO
Travel is a huge inspiration for Fanny Serrano's collections. From the orient to the pacific islands, influences from around the world play a key role in his comeback runway show. From his billowy kaftans in dazzling prints, it was a very creative collection indeed. The collection is easy, wearer friendly, certainly hip but with a twist. Serrano defines his design philosophy with three adjectives: clarity, wearability and most of all versatility, its uncomplicated clothes that they can take with them anywhere at anytime."
In today's return to elegance, the goal is to dress light, but come prepared for all options. There are basic things to take with you to wear: something you can dress up in; something you can bring to a dinner; looking chic and relaxed at the same time.
9. DODJIE BATU
There is a certain sharpness in Dodjie Batu's mensline that I couldn't ignore anymore, he nailed it again. He showed bespoke elegance that separated him from the usuals. The palette was toned down by keeping it black and gray, cut close to the body the silhouette gave a tonal look of slim, crisp and masculine heft. The nice fit trousers void of creases became the point of emphasis, the jackets were glamorous with a playful tinge of metrosexual male. Get ready for Batu's double breasted ensemble, three pocket suit, strips of cascading fabric down the waist and very deep V plunging neckline, If Bowie can do it, why not!!!
Dodjie Batu subversively streaked and added technical details like bonded lining on classically tailored suits, leaving it neat sans puckering. Unhinged elegance emphasized the rock-chic sartotial lines of the clothes. He must be conveying something about masculinity with little femininity........ Batu chose the right clothes and visuals.
Leanness remakably set the mood, as it was punkish, youthful style, almost athletic. Injecting doses of physicality was his sleeveless shirt, chopping together to inhale the sense of freedom and exhale style arrogance both from the designer and the collection.
He quietly asserts himself as a designer of substance, certainly a powerhouse design talent....in the future. Despite his short tenure in the fashion world, a Filipino Alliance of Designers Manila member, the neophyte is making his presence felt with his distinct style among the heavyweights. His creations displayed a surprising maturity and finesse, chasing bounderies on concepts and translated simple designs into simply great garments.
Creative thinking and ingenuity define the works of this nouveau talented designer who made waves at the recent Philippine Fashion Week Holiday...at least.
Breaking every theory of balance and sobriety, Ocampo emerged strong by sticking to his arts. Delicate laces and rich lame fabric subtley texturized the print and detail. The little black dresses created a structure and volume interplay. Layering added depth, while lace textures made a playful sensuality, without being ultra-feminine.
The black masks were completely intriguing, they dramatized the effect on black ensemble, it was like a journey from clarity to obscurity. Similarly, the shimmering fabrics were juxtaposed, giving a new dimension to the pret-look without much overtones on Ocampo's theatrical couture.
PHOTO CREDITS: MICHAEL FRANKS
BRUCE CASANOVA
PAUL CORTES
STYLEBIBLE.PH
PAUL CORTES
STYLEBIBLE.PH
No comments:
Post a Comment